A Traveler’s Notes on Uttarkhand: Gangotri-Gaumukh-Kedarnath-Tungnath-Badrinath-Auli-Haridwar
“Life is a journey that you must travel to explore and leave the trail behind you for others to follow.”
Writing a travelogue is a very difficult task because everything can not be expressed in words.But still I try to pen down my thoughts with some useful information so that other travelers can benefit from it. There are many reasons why people travel but we took this journey to escape from the mundane of materialistic world and to reunite with the nature. The Himalayas are not only the land of beauty and abode of gods but it is a synonym of Indian culture too and it never fails to inspire me. So on a fateful day of 26th May 2008 we started our journey to the Himalayas and it was definitely an experience of a lifetime.
Our trip started on 26th
May 2008 from Bangalore and we booked our entire
trip through GMVN’s Bangalore office.
Booking through GMVN is probably
not the best option in terms of cost but they have various bungalows and
rest houses all over Uttarkhand and I would recommend that for the first time
travelers. Our trip lasted 15 days and it went of very smoothly for the most
part.
In short our trip was
Bangalore-Delhi-Rishikesh-Uttarkashi-Gangotri-Gaumukh-Kedarnath-Tungnath-Badrinath-Auli-Haridwar-Delhi-Bangalore.
Since this was a family trip so
we planned it carefully detailed to the core.
Lots of information is available on the web but in particular I would like to acknowledge the
information and suggestions that I received from IM’ers of Indiamike especially regarding the
Gaumukh trip. Besides the website of Uttarkhand’s govt GMVN.com is equally
helpful.
Click here to see our detailed itinerary.
Uttarkhand II Kedarnath-Tungnath-Badrinath
Part I
Bangalore-Delhi-Rishikesh-Uttarkashi-Gangotri-Gaumukh-Uttarkashi
Day1: 26thMay 2008
From: Bangalore to Delhi
By: Air
Distance: 2 hrs 30 mins.
Morning we catch the airport bus to BIAl (banglore’s new intl. airport) and it took almost 1½ hr to reach there. As usual jetlite flight to Delhi was delayed by 2-3 hrs and didn’t get any thing on board to eat except a stale muffin and a cold burger. We reached Delhi at 6.30pm in the evening and checked in Hotel Ajanta (pre-booked) near NDLS stn. We had our last chicken butter masala in dinner as the forthcoming weeks are going to be vegetarian.
Yes Uttarkhand is considered as a devbhumi (abode of Gods) and alcohol and non veg items are strictly prohibited.
A word of advice: Stay close to NDLS stn. so it easier to catch the morning train.
Day2: 27thMay 2008
From: Delhi to Rishikesh
By: Train (2017 Dehradun-Shatabdi express) and
By Road (Haridwar – Rishikesh)
Distance: 4.5 hrs by Train and 45 mins by Road
We catch an early 6:50 am train Dehradun-shatabdi express (pre-reserved) to Haridwar. Reached there around 12:30 and booked a taxi to Rishikesh -this is a 45min drive from Haridwar. We stayed at GMVN’s Ganga resort which has a very beautiful view of muni ki reti and Ramjhoola.
Rishikesh
A word of advice: From Hardiwar Rly. Stn to Hotel in Rishikesh we had little bit of hassle getting a taxi as they were charging almost double. Finally we figured out that there is a approved taxi stand where the rates were reasonable. So please avoid the private taxi for this. Also avoid taking auto since they do not go all the way to Rishikesh from Haridwar and you will have to change autos midway ( they don’t tell you that when you start from Haridwar ! )
Day3: 28th May 2008
From: Rishikesh to Bhairon Ghati via Uttarkashi
By: Road (Qualis)
Distance: 280 Km (12 hrs)
(Note: Rishikesh – Uttarkashi is 150 km / 6 hrs)
At 6:00am in the early morning we were all ready with our backpacks and luggage, was enjoying the sunrise….and
the sun rises….rises…but the qualis didn’t arrived. Finally we started for
Uttarkashi at 7:30am…yes in the same qualis….and the journey to Himalayas begins….
As soon as we entered the hilly
roads of Uttarkhand, BRO greets us-“Deepak bole jai badri vishal”…I wonder who
is Deepak??? (later I came to know that Deepak is one of the BRO's project) Qualis was speeding along the serpentine roads and down river Ganga meanders its way through the lush green valleys.
For the next few hours we were completely soaked in the beauty of Himalayas.
Reached Uttarkashi at 1:30pm and
after another 20min drive reached at Tekla-Kotbangla DFO office for the Gaumukh
trek permit...….tried to have lunch at Netala…..no not succeeded because of too
much crowd…finally set forth for Bhairon ghati…en-route we cross Harsil and
Dharali –the two beautiful Himalayan hamlets.
The road to Gangotri was in very
pathetic condition dotted with landslides and ongoing construction works of HCC
and NTPC.
Bhairon ghati is a very quiet,
chilly and eerie kind of place dotted with few houses and no electricity,
surrounded by towering hilly slopes and was covered in mist.
Since we booked our stay through
GMVN and it was the peak Yatra season so has to adjust with some unfavorable
places. On day 3 we travelled for approx.280km!!
On the way to Gangotri
A word of advice:
Take a copy of fax or application letter with you when going to DFO office.
Read more details on : How to get Gaumukh permit
Try to start early so you can arrive for lunch on time.
Try not to stay at Bhairon ghati. Harsil may be a better option.
Day4: 29th May 2008
From: Bhaironghati to Gangotri
By: Road (Qualis)
Distance: 10km
After having our breakfast at dhaba-the only one in the locality... we set forth for Gangotri at 8:00am. All
the vehicles came to a halt just 2-3km before entering Gangotri….because of
unavailability of parking space…we left the luggage in the qualis and went to
the rest house…got the luggage after 4 hrs.
In the evening visit Gangotri temple, attend the Ganga aarti…shopped for
trekking sticks…This day we actually kept for acclimatization for the next day
Gaumukh trekking.
Gangotri Temple
Taptkund at Gangotri
A word of advice:
We recommend that you take one day to acclimatize to high altitude.
Start as early as possible due to traffic congestion on way to Gangotri.
Vehicles are allowed all the way into Gangotri only if the vehicles which have gone earlier
make their way back. This is strictly enforced and controlled by efficient traffic police and volunteers.
Day5: 30th May 2008
From: Gangotri to Bhojwasa
By: Trek
Distance: 14km
Early morning 6:30am, I and my
husband were fully geared up for the trekking … we packed the water bottles
(2lt), some dry fruits, biscuits and chocolates. Our parents stayed back at Gangotri
and we set forth for the trekking.
There is a flight of very steep stairs behind the Gangotri Temple from where most trekkers choose
to start their trekking.We didn’t take this route …instead we took an alternate route or
trail (guided by a local shop keeper) which is less steeper and after we walked for 40min
we reached the gate of Gangotri National park...which opens at 6:00am…. This is where
you need to show the permit. We completed the formality and were let inside.
Sudarshan Peak
After walking for 2-3km along the narrow trail which clings to the ever changing mountain slopes on the way to the Bhagirathi we reached Devvan. After Devvan climbs become little steeper and began to feel the rarefied atmosphere. But the sights of Bhrigupanthi series of peaks were breathtaking.
Bhrigupanthi series of peaks
Another 6 km followed by steep and gradual ascents and descents we finally reached Chirbasa (pine forest) which is 9km from the Gangotri…took a break for 30 mins.…had handful of dry fruits and washed them down with glass of glucose water. Many named and unnamed peaks were peeping through the corridors and the beautiful landscape changes on every bend of the river….
Trail that leads to Bhojwasa
From Chirbasa to Bhojbasa (bhoj tree forest) it is 5km trek but it is strewn with landslides and steeper climbs….vegetation starts thinning out….our limited stock of water was exhausted and were completely depended upon the glacial water which was coming down from the streams. It will be unjustified to say that we were not exhausted…we were definitely exhausted but the sights of beautiful Himalayan peaks, the beautiful landscapes and the thirst to reach gaumukh keeps the spirit alive….and finally after walking through the moraines we reached Bhojbasa…at 4:30pm.
Bhojwasa camps perched in the glacial valley
The last rays of sun were still flickering in the glacial valley. Bhagirathi and its sister peaks stood majestically against the azure blue sky and welcome us in its kingdom.
Bhagirathi and its sister peaks
We went to Ram baba ashram and were shown to our tent…..quickly we took as many snaps as possible before the darkness sets in the valley. At 7:30 pm we were served the hot khichdi as dinner which we finished in no time.
Tenting at Bhojwasa…just next to river Bhagirathi
Darkness slowly engulfs everything in its veil…the valley become as silent as dead….except for the monotonous sound of river Bhagirathi….
A word of advice:
Start early
If you are physically fit and not carrying too much luggage, then guide is optional. The road is straight and well marked and it is very unlikely to lose your way.
There are absolutely no refreshments available on the way, so carry some with you.
The GMVN rest house has been closed and demolished so no advance reservations for stay are possible.
Gaumukh can only be seen from a 500m barrier. It is for your own safety.
Day6: 31st May 2008
From: Bhojwasa to Gaumukh to Gangotri and back to Uttarkashi
By: Trek and by road
Distance: 18km by trek and 6hr by road
Sleep allures us from a distance only so there was no question of waking up. At 5:00am in the morning we decided to start our trek for Gaumukh. The morning sun brought some warmth in the otherwise chilling valley and when the first rays of sun kissed the peak of Bhagirathi, the God’s beautiful creation came into full life. For the next few minutes we marveled at this beauty.
When the morning sun kissed the peaks of Bhagirathi
After Bhojwasa there was no definite trail that will lead to Gaumukh, instead one has to find his way through the glacial moraines and rocky boulders. When we reached there, a rocky
boulder claims “the altitude of Gaumukh is 4000mt above m.s.l.” (That was
written in Hindi off course!!)
There is a barrier of 500m beyond which it is not permissible to enter. We took a comfortable position from where we can see the glacier which feeds the river Ganga-the lifeline of India.
The world is witnessing global warming and it is very much evident here- in the retreat of the glacier. But wenever realized it and still ignore it.
While route to Gaumukh is pollution free , i would advice the traveller to see that they too take aprropriate measure to not pollute it.
On this trip I have witnessed some of the most dreaded pollution. Huge
non-biodegradable plastic waste was simply lying in the slopes of valleys and
along the streams.
Shivling Peak
On our way back to Bhojwasa and then to chirbasa I thought in retrospect that this is the trail which witness the man’s quest for unknown through the centuries, and today I am also leaving
behind my footprints here.
I turned back to see Bhagirathi beaming in the morning sun and I promise to return back for more.
We reached Gangotri at 3:00pm in the afternoon, had our lunch and then started off to Uttarkashi and reached there at 9:00pm.